When choosing a blade, you need to consider the following points:
1 Diameter: This is measured from the farthest edge of one tip to the farthest edge of the directly opposite tip. Use the saw diameter designed by the machine. Even if the material being cut does not require the cutting depth of the appropriate size blade, you also need the edge speed that a full-diameter blade can achieve.
2 Number of teeth: The basic rule is that the more teeth, the finer the cutting, but you must also consider the cutting thickness and feed rate. Fine-tooth saws tend to leave a smoother finish because the bite of each tooth is smaller, but if the material is too thick or fed at a high rate, the esophagus capacity of the fine-tooth saw blade is too small. (The tooth gap is the open space between the teeth. Insufficient cogging capacity will cause burning, poor cutting quality, and may cause thermal damage to the blade.) On the contrary, insufficient number of teeth will be carried out when the feed rate is low or the material is thin. Cut hard and leave a rougher surface.
If the material you are cutting is done on both sides, the number of teeth may have to be higher and/or the feed rate lower, unless there is a scored blade. Pre-scoring will allow for a thicker number of teeth and therefore a higher feed.
3 Tooth type: These are generally divided into three categories: square top type-split saw, used for along-grain cutting of solid wood; alternate top bevel (ATB) style-cross-cut saw, used for cross-grain cutting; and three-piece type- Mainly used for composite boards.
There are also special blades for specific applications, including: thin cut/thin edge saws, chip limiter split saws, double end tenon saws, negative hook saws, hollow floor/face saws, high ATB (alternate top bevel) and alternate face bevels Blades for composite board applications where there is a problem of surface debris.
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